In a perfect world, we would replace all of our household appliances with more energy efficient models. Unfortunately that is not a realistic option. Instead, the next best approach is to make sure the appliances we have are functioning properly.

The following is what you need to know about how to better use your existing appliances:

Refrigerator/Freezer

• Position your refrigerator away from a heat source such as an oven, a dishwasher, or direct sunlight from a window.
• To allow air to circulate around the condenser coils, leave a space between the wall or cabinets and the refrigerator or freezer and keep the coils clean.
• Make sure the door seals are airtight. Simply place a piece of paper between the door and the refrigerator box, if the paper does not move great, if it slices out then your rubber sealant should be replaced
• Keep your refrigerator between 35 and 38 degrees Fahrenheit and your freezer at 0 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Minimize the amount of time the refrigerator door is open

Dishwasher

• Always run your dishwasher with a full load. Most of the energy used by a dishwasher goes to heat water. Since you can’t decrease the amount of water used per cycle, fill your dishwasher to get the most from the energy used to run it.
• Avoid using the heat-dry, rinse-hold and pre-rinse features. Instead use your dishwasher’s air-dry option.

Clothes Washer

• Fill it up, clothes washers use about the same amount of energy regardless of the size of the load, so run full loads whenever possible.
• Wash in cold water as much as possible. Switching your temperature setting from hot to warm can cut energy use in half. Using the cold cycle reduces energy use even more.
• Where and when possible, air-dry clothes instead of using a dryer. Use a drying rack or hang clothes outside.
• If your clothes washer has spin options, choose a high spin speed or the extended spin option to reduce the amount of remaining moisture in your clothes after washing. This decreases the amount of time it takes to dry your clothes.
• Leave the door open after use, when the machine is not in use, the seal can trap moisture in the machine which can lead to mold. Leave the door ajar for an hour or two after every use to allow moisture to evaporate. Make sure your kiddies do not climb into the machine while the door is open.
• Rinse your washer once a month by running a normal cycle with 1 cup of bleach to help reduce the risk of mold or mildew buildup. Consult the product owner’s manual before attempting.

Air Conditioners

• For better temperature control, use timers. This will allow you to use the minimum amount of energy you need to cool your room.
• Make sure each air conditioner in your home is properly sized for the room that it is in.
  Water Heaters
• Most water heaters last about 10-15 years, so before your’s goes caput, research your next purchase. By acting early, you have more control of your purchase and can start saving money right away.
• Flush the water heater every six months. The buildup of sediment in the tank can reduce your water heater’s energy efficiency and also clog your water lines.

Water Heaters

• Most water heaters last about 10-15 years, so before your’s goes caput, research your next purchase. By acting early, you have more control of your purchase and can start saving money right away.
• Flush the water heater every six months. The buildup of sediment in the tank can reduce your water heater’s energy efficiency and also clog your water lines.

Ceiling Fans

Ceiling fans are known for stirring up air during the summer months, but did you know that they should be doing the same thing during the winter months? A ceiling fan can actually save you about 30% on your cooling costs and 10% on your heating costs when run in combination with adjusting your home’s temperature by two degrees.

• Make sure your fan is at least seven feet from the ground and make sure there’s ample room for the blades to spin unencumbered, at least 24″ from the closest wall.
• Remember that a fan with a light kit increases its versatility. Fans that don’t come with a light are adaptable in case you ever want to add one.
• If you are replacing an existing fan, purchase the largest fan your room will allow. A larger fan moves more air at lower speeds, which reduces noise and increases the fan’s life span, since it doesn’t have to work as hard.
• Check how your fans have been installed. The right type of mounting maximizes the cooling effect. For a low ceiling make sure it is a flush mount and /or semi-flush mount fan. For a high ceiling make sure it’s a downrod. To bring the circulating action down into the room and for a sloped ceilings an angled mount is required, usually sold separately.
• If you have an outdoor fan be sure that the motor is designed to withstand moisture and temperature changes and that the blades are constructed from a man-made material that won’t warp with humidity.
• Want the ultimate convenience? Add a remote control! Some remotes even have special sensors that will turn the fan on and off automatically or adjust fan speed based on room temperature. Pretty Cool.

Insulation

Homeowners, especially those who live in older homes, can reduce heating and cooling costs by up to 20% (up to 10% of total energy costs) by sealing their homes and adding insulation in attics, floors, over crawl spaces and on accessible basement rim joists.

The leading cause of energy waste in the home is inadequate insulation and air leakage. Start by checking your attic. Is there existing insulation? Is there enough? If not add insulation to improve the warmth of your home. Second check the basement. If unfinished, use a blanket insulation with a flame-resistant polypropylene facing; if finished use a faced or unfaced batting insulation between studs in a framed wall

But before taking on these projects make sure to inspect your home thoroughly for any signs of water damage or water leakage. If these problems are not addressed before insulating your home, you may run the risk of long term mold growth and/ or poor indoor air quality. Please take the time to inspect carefully. Also be sure to use proper gear, such as a face mask or respirator, protective clothing, safety glasses, and a work light when inspecting, as airborne fiberglass is irritating to the eyes, skin and lungs. Please be careful and always read instructions before starting a new project. Enjoy your home.

Energy efficient choices can save families about a third on their energy bill — with similar savings on greenhouse gas emissions — without sacrificing features, style or comfort. ENERGY STAR helps you make the energy efficient choice.

Help protect the environment and visit ENERGY STAR.Gov

Are your monthly energy bills climbing?

According to the US Department of Energy, up to 45% of a home’s energy loss is through the attic, though the amount of heat actually lost will depend on where you live and how cold your attic gets.

It is not difficult to figure out home much energy you are using, and just as importantly, losing. When auditing your home, keep a checklist of areas you have inspected and problems you found.

This list will help you prioritize your energy efficiency upgrades.

Locating Indoor Air Leaks

First, make a list of obvious air leaks (drafts). The potential energy savings from reducing drafts in a home may range from 5% to 30% per year, and the home is generally much more comfortable afterward. Check for indoor air leaks, such as gaps along the baseboard or edge of the flooring and at junctures of the walls and ceiling.

Check to see if air can flow through these places:

• Electrical outlets
• Switch plates
• Window frames
• Baseboards
• Weather stripping around doors
• Fireplace dampers
• Attic hatches
• Wall- or window-mounted air conditioners.

Also look for gaps around pipes and wires, electrical outlets, foundation seals, and mail slots. Check to see if the caulking and weather stripping are applied properly, leaving no gaps or cracks, and are in good condition. Inspect windows and doors for air leaks. See if you can rattle them, since movement means possible air leaks.

Locating Outdoor Air Leaks

On the outside of your house, inspect all areas where two different building materials meet, including:

• All exterior corners
• Where siding and chimneys meet
• Areas where the foundation and the bottom of exterior brick or siding meet.

You should plug and caulk holes or penetrations for faucets, pipes, electric outlets, and wiring. Look for cracks and holes in the mortar, foundation, and siding, and seal them with the appropriate material. Check the exterior caulking around doors and windows, and see whether exterior storm doors and primary doors seal tightly.

Use Caution When Sealing Leaks

When sealing any home, you must always be aware of the danger of indoor air pollution and combustion appliance “backdrafts.” Backdrafting is when the various combustion appliances and exhaust fans in the home compete for air. An exhaust fan may pull the combustion gases back into the living space. This can obviously create a very dangerous and unhealthy situation in the home.

In homes where a fuel is burned (i.e., natural gas, fuel oil, propane, or wood) for heating, be certain the appliance has an adequate air supply. Generally, one square inch of vent opening is required for each 1,000 Btu of appliance input heat. When in doubt, contact your local utility company, energy professional, or ventilation contractor.

Check Attic Insulation

Heat loss through the ceiling and walls in your home could be very large if the insulation levels are less than the recommended minimum. When your house was built, the builder likely installed the amount of insulation recommended at that time. Given today’s energy prices (and future prices that will probably be higher), the level of insulation might be inadequate, especially if you have an older home.

If the attic hatch is located above a conditioned space, check to see if it is at least as heavily insulated as the attic, is weather stripped, and closes tightly. In the attic, determine whether openings for items such as pipes, ductwork, and chimneys are sealed. Seal any gaps with an expanding foam caulk or some other permanent sealant.

Make sure that the attic vents are not blocked by insulation. You also should seal any electrical boxes in the ceiling with flexible caulk (from the living room side or attic side) and cover the entire attic floor with at least the current recommended amount of insulation.

Check Wall Insulation

Checking a wall’s insulation level is more difficult. Select an exterior wall and turn off the circuit breaker or unscrew the fuse for any outlets in the wall. Be sure to test the outlets to make certain that they are not “hot.” Check the outlet by plugging in a functioning lamp or portable radio.

Once you are sure your outlets are not getting any electricity, remove the cover plate from one of the outlets and gently probe into the wall with a thin, long stick or screwdriver. If you encounter a slight resistance, you have some insulation there.

Heating/Cooling Equipment

Inspect heating and cooling equipment annually, or as recommended by the manufacturer. If you have a forced-air furnace, check your filters and replace them as needed. Generally, you should change them about once every month or two, especially during periods of high usage. Have a professional check and clean your equipment once a year.

If the unit is more than 15 years old, you should consider replacing your system with one of the newer, energy-efficient units. A new unit would greatly reduce your energy consumption, especially if the existing equipment is in poor condition. Check your ductwork for dirt streaks, especially near seams. These indicate air leaks, and they should be sealed with a duct mastic. Insulate any ducts or pipes that travel through unheated spaces. An insulation R-Value of 6 is the recommended minimum.

Lighting

Energy for lighting accounts for about 10% of your electric bill. Examine the wattage size of the light bulbs in your house. You may have 100-watt (or larger) bulbs where 60 or 75 watts would do. You should also consider compact fluorescent lamps for areas where lights are on for hours at a time. Your electric utility may offer rebates or other incentives for purchasing energy-efficient lamps.

How’d You Do?

Once you make your home or office as energy efficient it’s time to start thinking about a solar energy system that will protect you against further increases in energy prices. And, where applicable, your solar system allows you to feed the energy you don’t use from your solar power installation back into your local utility power grid for even more energy savings on your energy bills. 

Think: Energy Independence!

Visit to www.solarday.com for their Home Energy Audit.  It’s easy and you do it yourself.